What is the first thing to come to mind when you think of Nepal? Trekking and Sherpas. When I decided to take a sabbatical from my work, at age 70, I decided to come to Nepal per recommendations of my Nepali students. I investigated many trekking companies and, after interviewing several operators, I decided upon Marvel Adventures, after speaking at length by phone and exchanging numerous emails to Nir Kirki, its owner, extending over several months (after an unexpected, but wonderful, diversion in India). A guide for many years, Nir Kirki is an experienced and knowledgeable tour operator. He listened intensely, responded quickly to my communications, and met me personally when I finally arrived in Kathmandu. I explained to him my level of physical conditioning and expectations. Based upon my available time and the late May period close to monsoon season, he suggested the Langtang National Park since it was about 19 miles north of Kathmandu. It proved to be the perfect fit. He then assigned an experienced guide, Phinjo Sherpa from the Sherpa clan of the Everest area (parents still reside there). Although in his early 30s, he had already summited Everest twice and serviced Camp Base One. (Later, I found out later that Phinjo is assisting a school in his community to educate children, who have no other formal education options.) He is known as a “super guide” with special medical training in high altitude sickness and other medical conditions associated with trekking. He was extremely gifted in preparing me to reach eventually the 4450 meter elevation during the trek. “Slow but steady” was his motto, facilitating my altitude acclimatization to complete the trek without any mishaps. My porter, Jiwan Bisnet, was able, friendly, and accommodating, carrying safely my heavy belongings, including sensitive electronics and photographic equipment. The actual daily itinerary was expertly decided by my guide, who attempted to make my trip as comfortable as possible. After a while, he anticipated my food preferences and even helped cooked them. The tea houses chosen by Phinjo were adequate and provided sufficient food and supplies, except one without electricity. I came to take pictures and was not disappointed. The three of us bonded. After the trek, Nir met with me to ensure that the trek met with my satisfaction, which it exceeded. I felt the spirit of the mountain, the Tibetan Buddhist influences and and the people who lived there- Tamang, Sherpa, and the Gurung. I was regretful that the trek came to an end.Let me offer more details. Initially, being skeptical about the offering, I negotiated with Nir Kirka to pay for all of the transportation, housing, food, and licensing costs individually, and to pay him a service fee for guide, porter, and permit services. My first questioning occurred when Nir offered private taxi travel to the trail head Syabrubesi (1,440m/ 4,750ft), about $100-120 USD, instead of the bus. I was wrong. The road is disrupted by large potholes and uneven surfaces, which in speaking to other travelers, resulted in an uncomfortable passage for 7-9 hours. The car service costing about $100 USD, which was operated by his relative, was less expensive than other companies. (Keep in mind, the customer is obligated to pay for all services of the team of the guide and porter.) Although I questioned initially the decision, it was the right decision. The opportunity to stop wherever for food and take photographs, a necessary respite from the constant rocking and jostling of the ride. Once the trek began, everything that Nir described about the trek, I found accurate. Most of all, I felt safe. My trusted guide Phinjo Sherpa was patient and even imposed a slowness of my movements; although my pride aside, I followed his lead, a dawdling pace, which proved to be essential to prevent high altitude illness and able to reach the 4450 meters destination. During the eight-day trek, my body, despite my age, became conditioned to the rigors of the trek. I was mystified by the beauty of the landscape and the people. The Tea Houses, some I have forgotten but include Travelers Guest House in LangTang Village, Bamboo (near Pairo), Rimche, Riverside) were ample with basic accommodations (outdoor toilets, luke-warm showers, spotty internet services). I chose private quarters, which allowed me to recharge my electronic (except for one stop without adequate electricity power) and bodily batteries. As an experience, I could not have wanted more- the wide variety of climatic zones, from subtropical to alpine; varied flora and landscape, from rhododendron (the national flower), to pine forests, to bamboo forests alongside thundering waterfalls and stunning snow-capped mountains; interesting fauna, including musk deer and bovines (Yaks and Naks, water buffalo, cows, and various cross-breeds); and most of all, the authentic culture and heartwarming hospitality of its inhabitants, marked by strong Tibetan Buddhist influences with mani-walls and stupas dotting the landscape. I appreciate the ample knowledge of Nir Kirki- it was truly a “Marvel-ous Adventure”! Although I was suspicious at first (there are 200 trekking companies), Nir Kirki earned my trust. He is an honest man, who listened and responded to my requests and needs, offering recommendations based upon extensive experience as a guide, and extended himself to ensure that I had a wonderful experience. It proved to be more- transformative!
